Charlotte Malakoff
LOOKING back at the culinary highs and lows of 2025, there were plenty of restaurants to rave about, and others so disappointing that a return visit was off the table.
I can still taste the crisp-fried calamari and smoky, spicy chipotle sauce on La Parada’s tapas platter, and the memory of a whole, grilled Kariba bream, golden, crispy and delicious, devoured at Chop Chop in Pomona, lingers on.
At Kelly’s Kuttings, neither the vista of flower beds nor the excellent service made up for a hard and chewy roasted sweet potato, served on top of a watery puddle of hummus.
Late last year, Harare’s foodies and bon vivants were all talking about a new boozer that had opened up in Sam Levy’s Village, in a space formerly occupied by Antonio’s. Being a trend watcher, I had to visit.
With the macho name of The Brahman, this was not just a public house serving a variety of beers with a dish of nuts on the side.
The Brahman is a gastro pub with a menu offering a wide variety of dishes at the heart of Zimbabwean eating culture, in addition to an impressive range of ales, beers, ciders, wines, spirits and cocktails.
Attentive staff led us to a pleasant table on the verandah. Chairs were comfortable, neighbouring tables far enough apart to prevent eavesdropping on private conversations, and we had a fine view of the comings and goings in the busy shopping centre. To get a feel of the atmosphere at The Brahman, we decided to visit the bar before having lunch.
In contrast to the laid-back vibe outside, the bar area was sleek and modern. Particularly impressive were the well-made swivel bar stools – easy to climb up into and just the right height.
Comfortably ensconced, I could have passed the afternoon sipping cocktails, as George and I chatted to Progress, the congenial and knowledgeable mixologist behind the bar.
My alcohol-free Mojito, elegantly served in a cut glass tumbler, was the perfect blend of lime and mint. Usually a Castle lager fan, George drank a Leffe Belgian beer brewed in the style of Belgian monastic ales, and commented on its rich, fruity flavour. A waiter brought the lunch menu to the bar, and when the order was ready, our drinks were carried back to the verandah.
Sliced medium rare chargrilled rump steak was perfectly cooked and expertly sliced, complementing the full bodied Leffe beer. Hummus, served with pita bread and Kalamata olives, was a vegetarian’s dream.
Nutty, rich and creamy, garnished with chickpeas and swirls of extra virgin olive oil, and served with fluffy pita bread, this was a meal in itself.
Many of the dishes on the menu, such as chicken wings, pigs in blankets and bangers and mash, are typical of pub food, but in reality The Brahman is about much more than that.
Experience fine dining with Beef Wellington, green peas and red wine gravy, de-boned roast chicken with Yorkshire pudding, or dry-aged sirloin with onion rings and a side of pan-roasted Provencal vegetables.
Eating out can often be tricky for vegetarians, but the Brahman offers tantalising options, such as Caesar salad with Parmesan, anchovies, Dijon mustard, salad leaves and croutons, and beer-battered fish and chips (for pescatarians), to name some of the choices.
Desserts were down to three alternatives – all of them showstoppers. Who doesn’t love sticky toffee pudding, apple crumble with vanilla bean ice cream, and salted chocolate tart?
In contrast to the limited options for puddings, a connoisseur of beers, wines, ciders, and spirits could gaze upon the gleaming bottles lined up in the bar, and find any drink their heart desired.
You may have taken on a dry January challenge, but come February, why not sip on an Aperol spritz, a Jameson with a dash of spring water, or hit the spot with a Jager Bomb shooter?
Ladies be warned that The Brahman has only one minuscule powder room, with one wash hand basin. An ornate gilt framed mirror is mounted so high on the wall, you would need to stand on a box to see your reflection to check your makeup. And if you have had one too many, be aware that there’s no grab handle on the wall in the ladies’ loo.
The Brahman Gastro Pub has got off to a flying start. In spite of the cramped loo, exceptional hospitality and good food make it a contender for another culinary high in 2026.