By Charlotte Malakoff
THERE was a time when a plate of sadza, slow-cooked beef bones and a side of pumpkin leaves was considered the nation’s favourite dish.
While some might have argued in favour of road runner with mupunga unedovi, there’s little doubt that traditional dishes like Mbuya were always the top favourites. Now I’m not so sure. Of the 245 000 pizzerias in the world, 50 of them are in Zimbabwe, and the numbers continue to grow.
While a slice of pizza remains the ultimate fun food, there is also the lure of a crispy deep-fried chicken wing or breast, with a side of golden French fries and a splash of tomato sauce.
The craze for chicken began in 1987, when the prophetically named Mike Fowler and his partner Zed Koudounaris, opened Chicken Inn in Harare’s Speke Avenue (now known as Agostinho Neto Avenue). Since then, numerous fast-food brands, all extolling the super crunchy coating and succulent meat of fried chicken, have contributed to Zimbabwe’s ever-evolving eating culture.
With South African fast-food chain Pedro’s Flame Grilled Chicken poised to enter the Zimbabwean market, we will soon be spoiled for choice.
While neither pizza (sometimes soggy) or fried chicken (occasionally oily) represent high-end dining, at the end of a challenging week, both provide a form of comfort food. Similarly, many people claim they can’t sleep well at night without devouring a plate of sadza.
There’s something addictive about a well-made pizza, and the combination of crisp crust, molten cheese and caramelised tomato sauce can be irresistible. No flash in the pan, the pizza has been around for centuries. Evolving from a flatbread with cheese and dates, baked by Roman soldiers on top of their battle shields in the 6th century BCE, it’s now considered a global culinary phenomenon.
Not only the favourite party and sleep over food for Generation Alpha kids (born between 2010 and 2025), there was nothing better recently than munching a slice of pizza while watching the Zimbabwe cricket team beat Australia at the ICC T20 World Cup in Colombo.
Specialty restaurants in Harare, whether Thai, Indian, Chinese or Italian, tend to concentrate on one type of cuisine, and to excel in that style of cooking. Occasionally they may, with varying degrees of success, introduce their own version of a current food trend; a popular Thai restaurant in my hood recently built a pizza oven and can’t keep up with the demand for Tom Yum prawn and Thai red curry chicken pizzas.
Salt Restaurant at the Lifestyle Centre in Kingsmead Road, is undoubtedly one of the hippest restaurants in Harare, and always on trend with the latest culinary shifts.
Already popular for American diner classics such as steaks, burgers and buffalo wings, and for banging Mediterranean salads and seafood, it became clear just before Christmas last year, that something new was cooking. Before long, a wood fired pizza oven was unveiled, and Crust Pizzeria opened on Salt’s verandah.
On my last two visits to Salt, I’ve ordered Crust’s delicious halloumi pizza. While no Italian would dream of eating a halloumi pizza, preferring mozzarella to the salty Cypriot cheese, this hybrid pizza, made with precision, works well. The soft, airy, yet crunchy and freckled crust makes Salt an important pizza destination.
Should a vote be held to decide the nation’s favourite dish, there might be no clear winner. Pizza and fried chicken are easily accessed, and can even be delivered to your door. Sadza takes some skill to prepare well, and should be eaten while hot, while a flavoursome beef or road runner stew can simmer for an hour or more. Clearly, whatever the outcome, Zimbabwe’s eating culture continues to evolve.