Chef Kim brings pork chops to new levels at Amanzi@Amanzi in Kambanji.

TAKE the road less travelled into the far reaches of Kambanji, in search of fine dining at Amanzi Lodge, winner of ‘Best Boutique Hotel’ at this year’s AZTA awards.

Don’t expect dayglo lettering or flashing lights to indicate the left turnoff to Masasa Lane and to Amanzi Lodge – a discreet and unobtrusive wooden sign, barely discernible against the parched, dry season landscape, is the only marker for this upmarket destination.

Once the sentinel is convinced you are a bona fide guest, the gate opens into a lush and tropical garden, with ample shady parking and the welcoming ambience that surrounds Amanzi Lodge.

Pork chop with caramelised pears

Much has changed since the departure of Restaurant JDB from Amanzi Lodge, to an as yet undisclosed location. The minimalist, Bauhaus-style restaurant decor has been replaced with warm, African colours, and comfortable upholstered seating; JDB’s degustation menu, focusing on high culinary art and sampling small portions of Chef Johannes’ signature dishes, has been replaced by a fusion menu offering generous portions of favourite classic dishes, and new offerings from visiting foreign chefs.

On a hot summer’s day last week, welcoming staff directed us to the bar, where I hoped to taste some new-found combinations gleaned from the recent National Mixology competition at Borrowdale Brooke. The mixologist was off duty, but general manager, Hope Masola, gamely stepped in, and promised to create any cocktail we desired. Equally enticed by the prospect of sipping a Manhattan, a Margarita or a Tequila Sunrise, when George requested a fizzy fruit juice, I resisted temptation and ordered a pink soda.

Hope Masola has many strings to his bow; besides being a qualified chef and an IT specialist, he has many years’ experience in management. Although the occupancy at Amanzi Lodge was high, he found time to chat to us, discussing the state of the hospitality industry and food trends, even going through the lunchtime menu, and taking our orders.

Roasted asparagus with Parmesan and truffle oil vinaigrette

Although Amanzi@Amanzi’s dining room looked inviting, we decided to seek out the shade and have lunch outside, alongside Dominic Benhura’s large-scale sculptures, and surrounded by palm trees, anthuriums, ornamental banana trees and delicious monsters (Swiss cheese plants). All the lodge guests had the same idea, but our waitress eventually found us a table shaded by an umbrella, on a brick-paved area, overlooking the tennis court.

Roasted asparagus with Parmesan truffle vinaigrette, garnished with three quail eggs, was beautifully plated and delicious. In Amanzi Restaurant’s state-of-the-art kitchen, Chef Kim made the subtle, sweet flavour of asparagus irresistible with a dressing combining sophisticated, nutty Parmesan cheese and the heady scent of truffle oil. Although George’s starter of spinach and feta spring rolls with honey dressing was presented in a haphazard fashion and looked slightly oily, he said it was delicious.

You’ll find all your favourite dishes on the menu at Amanzi@Amanzi, including West African chicken ground nut stew and five spice oxtail on creamy mashed potato. A new dish, pan-seared tilapia with cous cous and corn salsa, was introduced by American celebrity chef and TV presenter Carla Hall, recently visiting Zimbabwe, and staying at Amanzi Lodge.

Large-scale sculpture by Dominic Benhura in the garden at Amanzi@Amanzi

Chef Kim brings pork chops to new levels with her dish of pork chop with caramelised pears, served with sugar snap peas and new potatoes. Thick-cut and bone-in, the chop was seared on the outside, cooked through yet juicy, and full of flavour. Freshly picked sugar snaps were served al dente, and the oven-roasted new potatoes were crisp on the outside, and fluffy within.

Homestead by Richard Witikani

A distraction to this excellent meal came with scouts from a colony of tiny black ants living in the bricks beneath our table. It’s well known that black ants are an important feature of the ecosystem, and according to Feng shui, small black ants found in your house are harbingers of material wealth and good fortune. Even so, their bites stung, and to escape providing a snack for these tiny pests (I was wearing sandals), our genial host, Hope Masola, arranged for dessert and coffee to be served in the gazebo at the entrance to the lodge.

Strong, full-bodied coffee made from Avanti roasted coffee beans was the star of the dessert course, served alongside sticky toffee pudding with a scoop of ice cream.

Adjoining the gazebo is a small art gallery, featuring well known Zimbabwean visual artists, some deceased, such as Luis Meque and Ishmael Wilfred, and others, still living, including Justin Gope, and Richard Witikani, at the peak of their careers. Make time to browse this collection, and appreciate the colours, techniques and inspirations that make Zimbabwean paintings so highly regarded and sought after by collectors around the world.

Amanzi@Amanzi is open for dinner every night of the week except Sunday, and lunch is served only on Tuesdays, Wednesdays Thursdays and Fridays. Far from the hustle and bustle of city life, this is a great place for a romantic date, a celebration with friends, or a quiet retreat.  A Matter of Taste with Charlotte Malakoff

Amanzi Restaurant at Amanzi Lodge
1 Masasa Lane
Kambanji Drive