All roads lead to Gava’s on a Sunday.

Gava’s has become Harare’s most popular traditional restaurant.

By  Charlotte Malakoff

A Matter of Taste

ALLEN Gava, whose family totem is the mhofu (eland), is the owner of Gava’s Restaurant at Belgravia Sports Club. Given that mhofus are born leaders, enterprising and successful in business, it’s hardly surprising that in the five short years since it opened in 2013, Gava’s has become Harare’s most popular traditional restaurant.

Although Gava had trained as an electrical engineer, the economic meltdown in Zimbabwe in 2008 forced him to earn a meagre living as a vendor, selling tomatoes and onions to restaurants. At this point the characteristics of the gava (fox or jackal) kicked in. From a young age jackals learn to rely on themselves and to survive in the wilderness; similarly members of the Gava clan are able to use their skills to overcome difficulties, and to become successful in life. Thus it was that Allen Gava decided to open his own restaurant, eventually leasing the bowling green at Belgravia Sports Club and creating an al fresco dining experience specialising in traditional Zimbabwean dishes.

Last Sunday all roads led to Gava’s, and by 1 pm there must have been several hundred patrons comfortably seated at picnic tables under shady tents, sipping drinks, chatting, listening to the sweet Afro-pop sounds of Gary Tight and contemplating the extensive menu. Helpful young waitresses wearing red tee shirts with the cute foxy logo took orders for drinks and meals.

At our table there were orders for grilled chicken and chips ($6), road runner stew with sadza ($8), oxtail with sadza ($12), and grilled Kariba bream with dovi (peanut butter) rice ($10). All dishes come with sadza, rape and sugar beans, providing a deliciously nourishing meal ticking all the boxes for health, strength and vitality.

The bream I ordered was fresh from the lake, crisp, perfectly cooked and so large that it occupied an entire plate; dovi rice, sugar beans and a copious serving of rape were served on a separate plate. Having observed how to cut and serve a large cooked fish on YouTube, I was able to devour every piece of delicate white bream, with the occasional fragment of crispy skin. Luckily everyone was too intent on their own delicious food to observe me munching the edible parts of the fish head. A dish of freshly made mhiriphiri provided an occasional zing to this plateful of superb comfort food.

During Allen Gava’s regional travels before 2013, he became aware of the popularity of traditional food in other African countries, and decided to provide Zimbabweans with their favourite dishes, prepared by the best cooks he could find. Chef Brian, who learned his cooking skills from his grandmother, a renowned cook, leads a team of three other talented cooks.

Produce is all organic and sourced locally from rural farmers, who use cow dung rather than chemicals to fertilise their crops. Tomatoes and onions are grown in Domboshawa, while a variety of grains such as mapfunde, zviyo and munga are provided by a number of farming centres in Mtoko. Free-range Hanga (guinea fowl) raised in Mt Darwin, are delivered regularly to Gava’s, where they are turned into the rich stew so popular with many patrons. In this way, Allen supports rural small scale farmers, while obtaining the best quality produce available.

Allen Gava’s dream was to create a friendly environment where all nationals and races could meet, while enjoying the best traditional food that Zimbabwe can offer. Judging by the multicultural crowds flocking to Gava’s last Sunday, dreams can come true.

Gava’s Restaurant

Belgravia Sports Club

2nd St Extension

Harare (Entrance on East Rd)

Tel: 08644

Cell: 0772 381 863

Comments to: cmalakoff@gmail.com