Restaurant Johannes de Bruijn to open at Amanzi Lodge

HARARE’S foodies and lovers of fine dining will have something to get excited about when Restaurant Johannes de Bruijn opens at Amanzi Lodge in Kambanji early next year. ‘Fine dining?’ I hear you say, ‘Who can afford it?’

Chef Johannes’ artistry: lamb loin with radishes and small grains.

But whatever is happening to the economy or the government, there’s a purpose to the extravagant high-end experience, especially when Amanzi owners Andrew and Julia Mama, a husband and wife team, are calling the shots.

In a previous life, Amanzi Lodge, known then as Barkers Lodge, was owned by Duncan and Yvette Barker, and already had a reputation for haute gastronomy. The Barkers now operate Wombles, one of Johannesburg’s top steak houses, while the Mamas, building on their reputation, have created a unique experience at Amanzi Lodge. Small, elegant lodges, creatively decorated in the style of different African countries, nestle within an exotic garden of rare cycads, palm trees and waterfalls, while the restaurant combines opulent interior design with original African paintings and artefacts. In preparation for the grand restaurant opening next year, Andrew Mama is installing an ergonomically designed professional Electrolux kitchen, the ultimate in practicality and efficiency.

The chef-in-waiting, Chef Johannes de Bruijn grew up in Zimbabwe, where his grandparents farmed in Cashel Valley. His grandmother’s apricot jam, made from her apricot orchards, won prizes at the Agricultural Show, and inspired a lifelong passion in Johannes for this delectable fruit’s sweet and sour flavour. Schooled at Eaglesvale and St John’s College in Harare, Johannes became obsessed with the idea of becoming a chef, and halfway through his ‘A’ level studies he abandoned academia, and enrolled at Murelle Hayes’ hotel school. He then served a short apprenticeship, working as a waiter and a barman, at Amanzi Restaurant in Highlands. ‘This was invaluable experience in learning how to deal with customers’, said Johannes, adding ‘It’s important for kitchen staff to understand the pressures exerted upon waiters by the public.’

Turbulent times in Zimbabwe in 2002 obliged Johannes’ parents to leave for South Africa. The future chef departed with them, taking up a three-year apprenticeship at Kopanong Hotel and Conference Centre in Benoni, 12 km from OR Tambo International Airport. As a trainee chef he worked in different departments, learning how to prepare hot and cold dishes and perfecting the art of the patissier in making sweet breads, croissants, pastries, chocolates and petit fours. Game for any kind of culinary experience, Johannes spent a year on the night shift at Kaponong, doing the breakfast prep for 300 people on the following morning.

It was time for a change, and when the head chef at the beach front Boat House in Ballito Bay quit, Chef Johannes took over, and stayed there for a year. Life in the fast lane was calling, and Johannes moved back to Jozi, to Fsh, pronounced Fish, a seafood and sushi restaurant in Rosebank. A steep learning curve followed, and as sous chef (second in command) additional duties included training staff and writing recipes.

In 2017, while Executive Chef at The Winehouse at Ten on Bompas Hotel in Johannesburg, Hello Joburg, a monthly restaurant and entertainment magazine, named Johannes as Chef of the Month. What further challenges lay in wait for this ambitious chef? In January this year, Chef Johannes travelled to Harare for a Pop Up Chef event at Amanzi Lodge. He came back in October for a similar event, this time with international sommelier Joseph Dhafana. By now the dye was cast, and Executive Chef Johannes de Bruijn would be returning to in Zimbabwe for an exciting new challenge at Amanzi Lodge.

Chef Johannes de Bruijn prepares to open new restaurant.

A six-course candle-lit tasting banquet was held recently, on a sultry summer evening at Pevensey Lodge (Amanzi Lodge kitchen still under construction), where Chef Johannes showcased his talent, wowing a group of foodies and future clients. The starter, pickled quail eggs sprinkled with Italian parsley dust, seasoned with white pepper and sea salt, was presented on a bed of amaranth seeds. Ruby red beetroot crisps, topped with goat’s cheese mousse and a beet and raspberry gel, accompanied the quail eggs.

Tomato risotto with pickled red onions and a tomato sabayon was packed with umami flavour, while barramundi (similar to hake), served on a parsnip puree with curried sultanas, cucumber salsa, seasoned with lemon oil and sea salt and topped with a sherry buerre blanc (classic French sauce made with butter), was perfectly cooked, balanced and flavoured.

Each course was paired with exceptional wines from Andrew Mama’s cellar, flowing alongside lively conversation and praise for the chef’s skill.

Silence fell as we started on dry-cured and pan-seared duck breasts rubbed with honey, Sechuan pepper, cumin and coriander, with carrot puree and confit carrots, pickled dates, pearl barley and jus gras (sauce made form juices at bottom of roasting tin).

South African-made Huguenot cheese was served with gooseberry preserve, a fresh honeycomb and walnut granola, sharpening our palates for a dessert of white wine-poached apricot with an apricot sorbet, white chocolate mousse, a financier (a French almond-flavoured sponge cake) and toasted almonds.

Years of practice, instruction and great skill go into the classical French culinary training that Chef Johannes has mastered. Sometimes I try to replicate something delicious I’ve eaten at a restaurant or at a friend’s house, in my kitchen at home, but I won’t be attempting to conjure up any of Chef Johannes’s creations. Instead, I’ll keep an eye on progress on the state-of-the art new kitchen at Amanzi Lodge, and make a timely booking in the new year for dinner at Restaurant Johannes de Bruijn.  A Matter of Taste with Charlotte Malakoff

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