Carrot cake made with love at Ridge Cafe Highlands

ESHU, the trickster god of the Yoruba of Nigeria, is in essence  a benevolent and protective spirit. Thought to be responsible for the good changes in life, he can also turn your life upside down if the mood takes him to play disruptive pranks on humanity.

An agent for change, he’s capable of providing wealth and taking it away on a whim. Always present where there is potential for change, or for conflict (usually over money), Eshu’s influence is felt at gathering places, at markets, in peoples’ houses, and at crossroads, where this trickster deity is said to reside. Known as the guardian of the crossroads, Eshu is fundamentally a prankster who creates havoc or harmony as he chooses.

Full English breakfast.

Judging by the development taking place at the crossroads of Ridgeway North and ED Mnangagwa Rd, it would seem that Eshu (should he exist) has been taking a break, possibly since the installation of traffic lights to ease the traffic flow, or following the transformation of ED Mnangagwa Rd into an economic development corridor. Old Rhodesian houses deemed to have little or no architectural merit have been demolished and replaced with tasteful office and shopping complexes with landscaped gardens. Resisting change, however, is Nazareth House, a peaceful and caring home for the aged, established in 1937 on the corner of Enterprise Road (now ED Mnangagwa Road) and Ridgeway North. This location was once described as ‘a prestigious residential area’.

On the opposite corner is the newly developed Ridgeway Shopping Mall, designed by innovative architects Pearce McComish Tabaku, who also drew the plans for Eastgate Shopping Centre and Eastgate SME Market. The Mall is home to a drive through Nando’s, a state-of-the-art TotalEnergies service station, a fancy car wash, various small boutique shops, and Ridge Cafe, a trendy, elegant coffee house that opens every day of the week. On a recent chilly Sunday morning, George and I were in search of a hearty breakfast, and  visited Ridge Cafe.

Patrons at Ridge Cafe can choose to sit either inside on comfortable chairs, out on the verandah, or in an eyrie up a short flight of stairs, where the view stretches far and wide. We chose an upstairs table, so as to keep an eye open for any untoward events on the busy crossroad. Cheerful waitstaff skipped easily up the stairs, first with the menu and later with trays bearing hot breakfasts and steaming cups of coffee.

English Breakfast was served hot off the pan, and perfectly cooked. As Ridge Cafe serves only halal food, flavoursome macon was served instead of bacon alongside a flawlessly poached egg, the yolk neither hard nor runny. Sautéed mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, a beef sausage and a dish of piping hot baked beans added texture and flavour, while two slices of freshly made brown toast, served with butter and strawberry jam, made this an energising start to the day. A flat white coffee brewed with La Lucie coffee beans from La Lucie Estate in Chipinge in the Eastern Highlands, was the finishing touch to a breakfast to remember. For a few dollars or ZIG more, Ridge Breakfast included a well-seasoned and succulent 100g beef steak, garnished with sautéed onions.

The Ridge Cafe

Fine diners in search of consommé or confit duck legs are unlikely to visit Ridge Cafe, but lovers of steak prego rolls, pizzas, London style fish and chips, and smash burgers served with double beef patties, jalapeños, cheese, macon and caramelised onion, will make this their go to place.

On the crossroads at Ridge Cafe.

Ridge Cafe is also big on desserts. On offer in addition to Chef Musa’s speciality, the sizzling chocolate brownie, are Belgian waffles, cinnamon crepes, and an array of freshly baked gateaux.

Exploring Ridgeway Shopping Mall before returning to Ridge Cafe to indulge in a slice of cake the following weekend, I went into Cafe Bonjour, a well-stocked and air-conditioned mini convenience store, a feature at all TotalEnergies service stations. The shelves were replete with an impressive array of fruit juices, energy drinks, imported chocolates and biscuits, in addition to items for personal care, car-related products, bottles of water and fresh bread. Should you have an urgent need for sustenance in the midnight hour, Cafe Bonjour is open 24/7, and ready to assist.

There was a quiet buzz on the verandah at Ridge Cafe when we sat down later for elevenses. Some patrons were muttering darkly about the economy as they sipped their milkshakes, another, enjoying an early lunch, munched happily on a chicken salad while his car was being washed. Chef Musa has great pastry skills and the chiffon cakes, cheesecakes and carrot cakes at Ridge Cafe are all made with love. The freshly baked slice of carrot cake we shared had a moist and tender crumb, a fluffy frosting, and the soft crunch of nuts, pairing well with a flavoursome La Lucie coffee.

On both visits to Ridge Cafe, I kept a watchful eye on the crossroads of Ridgeway North and ED Managagwa Road, but apart from the occasional lawless driver jumping the lights, there was nothing untoward to report. Eshu failed to show up.

A Matter of Taste with Charlotte Malakoff