Victoria 22 Up-market restaurant

Victoria 22 prawns in brandy cream sauce. Picture: JEKE & FRIENDS.

RECENT late night driving and returning home after midnight has made me conscious of how bright are the street lights outside State House. And how smooth is the road. With street lights spaced at regular small intervals and working! — J Togara between sixth and seventh is lit up like a sports stadium and visible from far down the bottom end. Feels like Johannesburg.

At least we know it’s possible. Though it only shows up how dark and lumpy the rest of the city is. Roadworks on Samora Machel are beginning to make a difference to the road surface but it’s been a very long time since this main artery was lit adequately.

It remains stressful to enter an unknown area at night where treacherous humps and large potholes lurk to snag the unsuspecting traveler. Newlands is one of the worst. Gracious old trees combined with decades of neglect have rendered most roads an obstacle course. Needless to say no streetlights either. But it was worth it to revisit after many years up-market restaurant Victoria 22.

With a deservedly fine reputation this has been our restaurant of choice to honour special occasion celebrations — wedding anniversaries, coming-of-age birthdays and to impress VIP visitors. Set in a beautifully refurbished colonial house — substantial round tables draped in heavy white linen, set with good silverware and solid white crockery on silver underplates raise expectations for an elegant dining experience. The restaurant has increased its capacity over the years and now caters for functions — birthday parties and garden weddings — as well as classy dining.

I did expect a meeter and greeter — but we had to find our own way to the bar where sadly no champagne cocktail. Settled for soda water while we chose a Graham Beck game reserve cabernet sauvignon (US$40) and enjoyed the cucumber and carrot sticks with a cheesy dip and delicious crunchy buttery bites.

Our table overlooked the lush landscaped gardens with a wonderful cycad lit up centre stage like a mating peacock. Service is attentive and the maitre d’ ran through the specials for us. My husband chose the starter platter (US$17), a nostalgic tribute to the old Vic 22 menu which on this night included smoked beef carpaccio, pan fried scallop and mediterranean salad. My chicken livers (US$13) were served in a delicious piquant sauce of chillie and garlic.

Disappointed that quails stuffed with pears and other delights were not on the mains menu that night, I chose the butterflied prawns (US$26) served in a brandy cream sauce – accompanied by a scalloped mound of rice and sweet juicy squash stuffed with carrots, peas and courgettes.

Prawns were succulent and sauce delicious. My husband had prawn and fish curry (US$26) – also served with rice, a huge curly poppadum and the same squash side. I do miss the old Vic 22 where one sat down to a special set dinner beginning with the signature starter tasters, moving on to a choice of usually two pastas then mains and dessert. Small portions allowed you to try a big variety.

Was devastated to find no chocolate dessert. Feeling too full for sticky Malva, we shared the homemade nougat ice cream (US$8) with chocolate chips and dark cherries. Delicious but not quite the decadent ending I had in mind. Compensation came with the truffles served with our coffee and when we expressed delight at finding them still a part of the dining experience, we were brought an extra portion. Nostalgia aside Victoria 22 serves fine food and is still a lovely place to celebrate a special occasion. Without drinks we spent US$100 for two.