Art of Breadmaking

POOLISH, Biga. These are not remote, romantic villages that you pass through on the trans Siberian railway but terms for bread sponge starters – part of being initiated into the Art of Breadmaking.

And it is an art. Enter a world where breads and doughs have different personalities. Some like to rise overnight in the fridge. Others flourish at room temperature. And they don’t always behave consistently. ‘The minute you think you’ve perfected it, something goes wrong,’ laughs one of the bakers. Bread making is about feel. Dough is a live thing.

I was welcomed into the Bread Company’s airy home kitchen — in a spotlessly converted garage — to a lovely snack platter that could have proudly graced any high -end restaurant. Cold pink peeled prawns with a mayo dip, beautiful cheeses, chutneys, grapes, salted almonds and strawberries were laid out beautifully on a scrubbed board along with peppery green olive oil – a perfect accompaniment to the array of breads.

Obviously a gracious hostess, this young baker relocated a few years ago from Johannesburg where she was used to easy entertaining – stocking up on ready made deli treats from Woolworths along with good bread. Harare was a different story. Without the array of deli products, treats needed to be made from scratch.

An even bigger drawback was no rustic style bread. Not at all daunted, she teamed up with a friend to start trying out different country bread recipes. Just over a year ago, after a lot of trials with local and imported flours and other ingredients, they began marketing themselves to local retail outlets as well as establishing a presence at the growing number of Farmer’s markets in the city. Billy’s Butchery was their first stockist – and a year later they are also supplying The Butchers Kitchen, Willowmead and a couple of Spar stores.

They are regulars at Maasdorp market on Wednesdays and I caught up with them at Amanzi market on a Friday. Signature loaves are ciabatta – plain and flavoured – and crusty French baguettes. They also produce a lovely country loaf and their marula bread has become popular.

Sourcing second hand bread ovens and an industrial mixer they have set up a very professional and hygienic working space. The science of breadmaking is visible in the mixing and measuring, the scales and sanitisers, proofers and cooling racks, temperature controls and oven steamers to make a good crust.

But the Art is in the feel, the ‘knowing’ when the dough has risen just enough, when it is ready to bake. The art is in the fermentation – allowing the natural processes of domestic and wild yeast and natural souring to leaven the bread. There is a magic about bread making and I was introduced to the various starter sponges – bigas and poolishes – forming bubbles in the warm winter sun. On the day I visited they were experimenting with a new starter made from sweet apples and were trying out a rum and raisin bread.

Pre-ferment and a slow rising give a low GI, making this bread a healthy option. The two women have recently returned from Paris where they spent a couple of weeks studying under a master baker at the cordon bleu academy immersing themselves in breads, grains and flours.
Starting as a hobby and a passion, Bread Company is developing a loyal customer base and becoming a successful small business. Bread comes wrapped in stylish paper – unfortunately printed beyond our borders. As much as they wanted to source local, prices were prohibitive.
Sample the magic! Find these bread makers at local markets or email breadco.zw@gmail.com

g.jeke@yahoo.com