Adoring fans flock to Harare’s fine dining restaurants

DISTRACTED by electioneering fever (by-elections on March 26), the war in Ukraine, and the residual shadow of Covid-19, Zimbos will be taking stock of their lives. And while we may see the future through a glass darkly, this hasn’t dampened our post-lockdown excitement at going out again, and dining at our favourite restaurants.

In a busy few days I visited two fine-dining restaurants in Harare, both of which inspire adoration from their many fans. Was this high regard justified? I couldn’t wait to find out.

Strawberry, coconut and white chocolate millefeuille at Restaurant JDB

On a Thursday evening early in March, George and I set off down Drew Road into the dark, unlit depths of Kambanji, in search of Msasa Lane. By luck rather than design we turned first left after Maranzi Road, eventually arriving at the portals of Amanzi Lodge and Restaurant Johannes de Bruijn.

Quail with cabbage and apple at Restaurant JDB

Having tasted Chef Johannes’ exquisite culinary skills in the Before Time at Pevensey Lodge two years ago, my expectations were high now that he had opened his own restaurant and was operating from a kitchen with cutting edge technology, assisted by experienced staff.

There was no one at the door to greet us, but we made our way inside, to where our host, a fellow foodie, was awaiting our arrival. Decor was minimal, with a Bauhaus simplicity, drawing attention to beautifully crafted wooden chairs and tables. A few minutes later, assistant manager Colin Horsley approached to explain the workings of the dinner menu.

Two choices were available – a four course degustation menu (tasting menu in layman’s terms) priced at $65, with a wine pairing for $25, and a six course menu at $80, with wine pairing at $35. Colin explained that house rules required everyone at the table to choose the same menu. Luckily, we all opted for the four course menu.

Beautifully plated, the artichoke starter with ricotta gnocchi and olives was a stand out dish. Similarly, everyone who ordered fresh asparagus with truffle and brown butter sauce found it delicious. Inevitably there were disappointments. The beef sirloin was said by two guests at our table to be tough, while another guest had to abandon her duck with peaches and fennel, finding the duck too tough to eat.

Out of Africa chic at Khaya Nyama Wombles.

An artfully constructed dessert of millefeuille (crisp, flaky pastry) with strawberries, coconut, white chocolate and cream, glamorously garnished with edible gold leaf, was enough to raise everyone’s spirits.

The JDB Experience on this particular evening was underwhelming, possibly owing to the fact that Chef Johannes, reputed to be a master of modern gastronomy, was indisposed, and off duty.

Last Friday evening, a different group of foodies invited us to join them for dinner at Khaya Nyama Wombles in Highlands. Some of us having recently recovered from Covid-19, we were celebrating life, and the joy of eating out, post-pandemic.

Dainty steamed pudding at Khaya Nyama Wombles.

Smiling wait staff, stationed at the entrance to Wombles, greeted us warmly, and ushered us in, past the bar, through to the verandah, where our friends were already installed at a large round table overlooking the waterfall.

The decor at Wombles is Out of Africa chic, with animal trophies looking down from the walls, wood-framed Thomas Baines prints of Victoria Falls, decorative woven baskets, Persian carpets and canvas film director’s chairs. The waiters, whose job it is to ensure a great experience for guests, were all attired in khaki kitchen suits – unflattering uniforms at the best of times.

Undeterred, the waiters attended our every need, filling water and wine glasses, taking meal orders and speedily attending to requests such as ‘more brown bread for the snails in garlic butter’ and ‘more cream, please, for the Pavlova’.

We all went the Full Monty, ordering a starter, main and a dessert. Hands-on owner Yvette Barker, immaculately groomed and dressed in white, was at her sparkling best, describing the specials of the day and pointing out options for starch dishes and a variety of side dishes.

First and foremost, Wombles is a steak house, and I felt a momentary pang of envy when I saw Ed’s 400g fillet steak ($35). The top and sides were charred to a rich brown colour, the centre a warm red colour. Ed confirmed that it was cooked to ‘medium rare perfection’, but was disappointed that the blue cheese sauce tasted sweet and ‘had no hint of blue cheese at all’.

Norwegian salmon ($35), ordered by five guests at our table, was also cooked to perfection – gently seared on the outside, and opaque pink within.

Dessert options included all the usual suspects – Pavlova, crepes Suzettes, and ice cream with Bar One, with the unusual addition of steamed pudding. I can’t resist jam roll poly, spotted dick, Christmas pudding, or any luscious steamed pudding, so was disappointed when my pudding turned out to be a small square of cake, hiding coyly underneath a rose petal, at the bottom of a very large bowl. Steaming hot cappuccinos, however, were aromatic and flavourful.

Covid-19 and its lingering effects still lurk in the shadows and political concerns are ongoing, but why not make the most of the sense of freedom while it lasts? Whether you choose the JDB Experience or the Wombles Welcome, you’ll be in good company, and one of many adoring fans.  A Matter of Taste  Charlotte Malakoff