Best of the good life

 So opens a chapter in one of my favourite novels – One Hundred Years of Solitude – by Gabriel Garcia Marquez – set somewhere in tropical South America. It rained for so long that walls crumbled, machines grew flowers and frogs invaded the houses and streets. It was necessary to dig canals to drain water from homes and everything was put on hold – politics, love affairs, even death. It’s starting to feel like that here. So much rain that I don’t even measure daily any more – just tip out the rain gauge every few days when it has filled up with another 100 millimetres! At night it feels like we are about to float away in the endless downpour. Moss blooms on walls and I am looking out for new gutters to keep the water away from the walls.
In spite of so much rain, the little stream that crosses our street is still not flowing – perhaps a clear indication that the development and resulting damage to Harare’s wetlands is taking effect. The continuing argument for wetland mall development is to decrease congestion in existing shopping centres. I am not sure where the powers-that-be are shopping, because many centres I used to frequent are dying a slow death. 
The advent of Pick ‘n Pay has revitalised Kamfinsa Shopping Centre and steakhouse DV8 has opened beneath the supermarket.  On a Saturday night pouring with rain and without power we wanted to try this newest addition to Greendale eating establishments.  With no phone number and no listing on Eatout it was a cold call. It’s a large restaurant and very few tables were occupied at 7pm. So we couldn’t understand why the callow youth personning the door told us that that they were fully booked and he could only fit us in at 830pm. Puzzling to fathom how the restaurant would fill and then empty within the space of an hour and a half. He handed us a brochure so we could book next time – but we felt very unwelcome without even an offer of a drink in the bar while waiting for a table.
I had been looking forward to a steak after a couple of weeks eating only fish but we ended up cooking comfort food by candlelight – a mixture of pumpkin leaves and Chinese greens with peanut butter and green chillie, served with butternut and potato. It was delicious and the steak dinner can wait!
Earlier in the week I found a much friendlier welcome at Fishmonger on East Road for a late lunch. One of Harare’s most consistent outlets, Fishmonger offers cheerful service and good fresh food at reasonable prices. Also no problems about turning up for lunch just before 2pm. I chose  seafood and avocado salad (US$8). A pile of prawns in a delicate rosemarie sauce topped with a fat black olive next to gorgeous pale green avocado slices spread in a fan with rocket leaves, it looked elegant and tasted delicious. Accompanied by complimentary rolls and a glass of white wine (US$3) it was a perfect light lunch.
My Boston friend developed a taste for calamari in Mozambique and sampled the Fishmonger version (US$12). Crisp fried with good chunky chips, it was also very good. Starters (US$4 to US$9) salads and mains are simple and refreshing. Although seafood is the speciality, chicken livers, giblets and steak cater for non fish eaters.  Prices range from US$10 for fish and chips to over US$20 for prawn combos or scottish salmon. Good value and a good welcome make for a loyal clientele and Fishmonger is well-patronised. I’ll be back again.
– g.jeke@yahoo.com