Eating out in the time of cholera

Starter platter at Sabai Thai Restaurant

DR Urbino de la Calle, a specialist in cholera, is a character in Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s prize-winning novel, Love in the Time of Cholera. A love story about one woman and two men, the novel is more about the joys and sorrows of marriage, than a treatise on the cause and effects of cholera.

Once thought to be a biblical plague, the recent outbreak of cholera in Harare will have reduced sales of street food, and encouraged cooks to be particularly vigilant in observing the rules of hygiene when preparing food.

Careful choices must now be made when eating out at restaurants and cafes. Avoid places where tables are not regularly wiped down, and where glasses, plates and cutlery don’t glisten and gleam; waiters’ uniforms and aprons should also be spotless. Are floors kept swept of crumbs and crunched-up paper napkins, and in garden restaurants is lawn under the tables kept clear of stompies, empty plastic bottles and discarded cans?

The approach to the immaculately-kept Sabai Thai Restaurant in Ballantyne Park is through Plant Plan Garden Centre, an oasis of flowers, ferns, shrubs, orchids and water features. A rustic brick path leads past bright summer annuals and flourishing herbs, to the restaurant entrance, where smiling staff wait to escort you to your table. Regardless of the time of day or evening, Sabai Thai always looks ready for action. Each table is set with attention to detail, including fresh flowers in a small glass vase.

Last weekend my visitors from Portugal were eager to taste authentic Thai cuisine in the warm heart of Africa. First choice was Sabai Thai Restaurant, where Chef Ning from Khon Kaen in Northern Thailand, and her husband, Zimbabwean Russell Macdonald, have created one of Harare’s most popular foodie destinations. On opening their restaurant three years ago, Ning and Russell hit the ground running, enjoying immediate popularity and expanding over time as far as space would allow. A garden wing was added, extending into the tree ferns and fountains, and nearby stables were converted into a banqueting area.

More help was needed in the kitchen, and sous-chef Lamduan, trained and experienced in traditional Thai cuisine, joined the team. Most recent arrival is Pimwipa, who spent a year at Patong Palace in Phuket, as an assistant to Chef Muk, best known for his calamari dishes. At Sabai Thai, Pimwipa makes authentic Pad Thai sauce by hand. No bottled pastes for the popular red, green and yellow curries are required, as these are also made by Pimwipa.

Lunch began with a large starter platter of crispy spring rolls, satay chicken, succulent sesame prawns and chicken nuggets, served with peanut, sweet chilli and soy sauces, and Ning’s unique kick-ass fresh chilli sauce. The delicate tempura coating for the prawns and chicken nuggets was created after many experiments by Ning’s team, from a combination of rice, cake and corn flours. (Starter platter for two $15).

We chose a bottle of Thelema Sauvignon Blanc ($24) from Russell’s well-stocked bar to drink with our starter. The Thelema Mountain Vineyards in Stellenbosch also produce a good Cabernet Sauvignon, available at Sabai Thai for $22. A special bargain is Rupert and Rothschild Classique, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, $35. Beer lovers can choose from Windhoek and Amstel beers, and from local favourites Zambesi, Castle Lite and Pilsener. For an out-of-body experience, try a tot of Jaegermeister with a can of Red Bull.

Lunch continued with a rich prawn coconut soup, made with locally grown and sourced mushrooms, celery and spring onions ($9). Pad Thai Duck with stir fried rice noodles ($25) was fragrant and delicious, the duck (grown locally) tender and flavoursome. A shredded green papaya salad with ground nuts, tomato, chilli and lime juice ($6) offset the rich duck and noodles perfectly. Dessert of freshly-made tempura banana and ice cream drizzled with honey ended our meal.

A cup of green tea was a fitting end to our meal at Sabai Thai. –  A Matter of Taste  with Charlotte Malakoff

Sabai Thai Restaurant
Corner Rolf Avenue and Stokesay Close
Ballantyne Park
Mobile: 0776 743 775
Closed Mondays
Comments to: cmalakoff@gmail.com