Enjoy the best life has to offer

The Pungwe for example becomes fat, slow and sleepy as it approaches the sea. The drive through the thick, almost impenetrable hardwood forests south of the Nchope crossroads used to be marked by burned out tanks, remnants of Mozambique’s long and debilitating war. It is very different now with trees felled for large scale commercial logging and land cleared for little roadside settlements. One day we will weep when there are no more trees and all that is left is exhausted salty soil. But for the moment there are pineapples, peanuts, cajus and mangoes and tiny kiosks selling groceries, slip slops and colourful cloths. 
All the same it’s a long haul – minimum 10 hours from Harare – and that is only if the road is okay and bits haven’t been washed away. So LAM’s special introductory offer of US$290 for a return flight to Vilankulo (US$320 with service fees!) had me making a speedy booking to spend an extended weekend enjoying the laid back pace of this Indian Ocean fishing village and resort. There were few passengers between Harare and Beira (one hour flying time) but from Beira – where we disembarked to clear immigration – the plane was full. Half an hour later we were landing in Vilankulo with the stunning turquoise and indigo waters of the lagoon on our left.
LAM’s in-flight magazine is an impressive production more like an art magazine than an airline special. Reflecting Mozambique’s visual tradition, the photos are works of art by big name photographers, and the prose poetic with articles covering historical Maputo, the glories of Cape Verde as well as Monet and Parisian sidewalks.
Beach sea colours are beautiful and soothing. Deep blue, gold, turquoise, along with grey weathered wood, faded coconut thatch and sun bleached shells make for a sense of peace and expansiveness.
Vilankulo has a lot to offer – from family self-catering resorts in the South to more upmarket lodges  on the North of the town and an array of guesthouses and camping options in between. Restaurants too have multiplied over the years. I remember when Bar TiZe near the market was the only choice and one could expect to wait at least an hour for peri peri chicken and chips. Still cooked on the charcoal fires it now takes only twenty minutes and is still recommended as the best value in town. They also do takeaways if you bring your own container.
We didn’t manage to try out everything in a few days. But Sunday saw us having a relaxed lunch on the breezy pool deck at the Archipelago Beach Resort in the south.  Sunday special was prawn curry  (300 mts – about US$10) served with poppadums, rice and tomato sambal. Wanting to fully recce the town we went for dessert to the Casbah and sat on benches with our feet in the white sand watching the kite surfers.
Desserts aren’t cheap anywhere – and no luck with my craving for traditional coconut tart. Chocolate salami – a kind of fridge cake stuffed with bits of biscuit, nuts and cherries looked good and hit the sweet spot with a good strong espresso – but was 180 mts (over US$6).
We finished our Sunday with a drink at Zombi Cucumber – once a busy backpackers – now refurbished and with new French owners shifting upmarket. Sonhandores – the Dreamers – a gorgeous smiling duo entertained us with drums and guitar.
All in all a lovely getaway. I so hope people patronise this flight and make it viable.
– g.jeke@yahoo.com