Mana Pools — a world heritage site

Close encounters of the large, grey kind in Mana Pools. Picture: CRAIG VAN ZYL

APPROACHING our fourth day without electricity I long to be back in the simplicity of the wilderness where, with no expectation of power, it seems easier to manage. A few days in magical Mana Pools where we stayed in the lovely National Parks lodges was totally restorative. Double storied, the two oldest lodges accommodate eight people each.

Now all fenced in — to keep out the raiding baboons and monkeys — the spacious upstairs sleeping verandah does feel unfortunately like a cage and takes away from the previous sense of openness when one could lean over the balustrade and have a safe vantage point to watch huge elephants scratch themselves against the house pillars or check out hippos munching the lawn in the moonlight.

All the same there is extraordinary sense of freedom and it is real privilege to walk in this park, to get up close with wild animals in a place where we are without doubt the visitors in a primeval landscape totally belonging to the wildlife. The main campsite, Nyamepi and the five lodges nestle along the river bank in the dense shade of huge mahogany trees and ancient albidas overhanging the magnificent Zambezi.

Staff walk this gauntlet daily and never know what they will come across on their way to work — a tribe of lions, a herd of buffalo, a lone hippo or a group of elephants. They become totally used to close encounters en route and can gauge the mood of individual elephants and know when to steer clear. One of our group referred to the two young women who took care of our lodges as warriors and sure enough, one morning they directed us to a family of five lions which they had passed sleeping behind one of the lodges downstream.

One morning I was sitting outside on a flimsy garden chair drinking tea with a friend when we noticed a purposeful bull elephant approaching. This time of year the apple ring pods of the albidas are plentiful and very desirable food for elephants — and there were plenty on the ground around us.

It felt like he was coming too fast for us to retreat to the lodge so we stayed — holding our breath, sitting very still as he picked up pods delicately with his trunk and tossed them into his mouth — like peanuts. The fattest juiciest pod was lying next to one of my chair legs and my heart was beating fast as he reached out with his trunk – literally a hand’s breadth away.

He walked in a deliberate slow circle around us — swinging his front leg as his amazing trunk sensed and picked the pods discarding grass, leaves and flowers and blowing dust off the pods before putting them in his mouth. It was a powerful experience and felt like a blessing to be so accepted by a wild animal in his territory. A friend told me a story of camping under the stars — feeling a presence — and opening her eyes to see a hippo momentarily blocking out the skyscape – stepping carefully over her prone body!

Catering and fresh food can be a challenge for a large group over several days in the October heat. Lodges supply gas fridges but campers need to figure out their own way to keep things cold. We ate very well but sitting round the fire one evening, we heard lions roaring very close and decided it was more sensible to cook inside rather than throw tempting raw meat onto the coals! Unsurprisingly, this unique park is a world heritage site. What a gift!

g.jeke@yahoo.com