Regal Byo at your service

Bulawayo is an easy place to hang out. The city centre is still gracious with its wide streets and spacious old buildings and in many ways more vibrant than Harare, the smaller scale allowing for more diversity. Natural meeting place was the lovely Bulawayo Art Gallery where the Art Grove coffee shop offers light meals and drinks in the courtyard. Unfortunately the coffee wasn’t too good — but ginger lemonade was refreshing, chocolate cake tasty — and tea copious and cheap —  though lack of scones disappointed the old timer I was with one afternoon.

Gallery is in a beautiful building refurbished in the 1980s to become a display gallery, workspace and meeting place for artists. Gallery shop is well stocked with local crafts and literature — very little of which I have seen in Harare. It would be good to see more work by Bulawayo writers in the capital. Seems like the two Gallery shops are independent of each other and don’t stock the same things but some sharing would be good especially on the book front. A little faded, attention and painting is needed on the outside woodwork but otherwise the building is in good shape.

Much better than historic Stanley Square in Makokoba. Dating from the 50s, it was a kick-off place for many musicians and bands as well as early nationalist politics, but is now quite run down. Spanking new however, is the bronze statue of Joshua Nkomo — looking west on what used to be Main Street (now renamed for Father Zimbabwe) and clustered with photographers ready to give you a quick souvenir for US$2.

Also spanking new and very busy is Bradfield Shopping Centre on the Hillside Road. Food Lovers’ market offers a great value Sunday lunch to take away with a                     combination of roast meats with potatoes, pumpkin and green veg only US$6. The centre also houses local pub and grill Roosters. An old-fashioned grill with a modern take, it was busy mid week. Prices are definitely cheaper than in the capital — with half Portuguese chicken only US$8.

I went for Cajun chicken breasts — perfectly cooked with a spicy coating served with a very tasty greek salad and potato wedges at US$10. My cousin kept to hunter’s rump steak and chips — beautiful Bulawayo beef for US$15. Eisbein — a huge smoked pork shank was served at a neighbouring table, looking meal enough for much more than one! Liked the idea of being able to choose two from an assortment of accompaniments — crinkle cut chips, potato wedges, green vegetables, greek salad or onion rings. Food was good, service smart and total modest at US$49 for three including drinks and one dessert.

Bulawayo is looking beautiful. Dams are spilling for the first time in decades –– verges in the city are lush and green and crops in the countryside promise an abundant harvest. Hillside Dam hasn’t overflowed since 1977 one person told me and Bulawayo is small enough with traffic light by Harare standards to make a lunchtime break there possible. Bean There, the small restaurant at the dam, is in a lovely spot — especially when the water is high.

We sat outside under shady trees on thick green grass. Service was a bit challenged but we managed to get our food in time to get back to the city for an afternoon appointment. Menu probably a bit ambitious for a small place and the food was just adequate with battered fish a bit tasteless and steak overcooked. Nicely presented though with a friendly and relaxing ambience. On the whole I found Bulawayo chilled, comfortable and welcoming. Could get ready to relocate!

g.jeke@yahoo.com