Saved by sticky toffee pudding at Luna’s Restaurant.

WHEN intrepid explorers return from tracking dinosaurs in the Zambezi Valley, and daredevil dragsters have parked their cars after the last race at Donnybrook Raceway, there’s a multitude of  alternative entertainments and events available in Harare.

Weekends can be taken up playing tennis, golf or padel, taking part in marathons raising awareness for health issues, or attending visual art and sculpture exhibitions featuring exceptional local talent. But there’s little doubt that the nation’s most popular pastime is eating out, and topics of conversation, wherever you find yourself, invariably turn to discussions about the merits of yet another recently-opened new restaurant.

Antipasti for two.

An overgrown residential property near the corner of Ridgeway North and ED Mnangagwa Road was transformed a short while ago into a tasteful shopping mall, surrounded by mature trees and green lawns. Alongside the shops, a paved garden path bordered by roses and lavender, leads towards an elegantly-restored house, now reinvented as Luna’s Restaurant. Some weeks ago, George and I stopped by on the off chance for mid-morning coffee and cake. Every table was taken, obviously by people in the know, and we felt as though we’d stumbled upon something special.

Sticky toffee pudding

Welcoming wait staff quickly managed to find us a table for two.   All around were smiling, happy families enjoying Sunday brunch,   their barefoot children romping happily on the grass. We shared a well-made slice of lemon meringue tart with a buttery short bread crust, a smooth lemon curd filling and a toasty meringue topping.  Although my cappuccino was lukewarm and lacking the requisite velvety texture, we decided to return for a meal at a later date.

Before long, a group of foodies invited us to join them for a mid-week lunch at Luna’s Restaurant. It was a sweltering hot day, the kind of weather you associate with drought, thunder storms and lethargy. But we were excited to be enjoying a meal with friends, and the cool verandah and reserved table looked welcoming. A sweetly smiling waitress brought us chilled spring water served with lemon and ice in attractive green water glasses. We were off to a good start.

Rumour had it that the owner of Luna’s was Spanish, so I imagined feasting off tapas of shrimp and chorizo flatbreads, chicken croquetas and patatas bravas. A quick glance at the menu revealed an eclectic choice  featuring most of the usual suspects on offer currently in Harare restaurants. Chicken and beef burgers, pork ribs, ribeye steaks, grilled prawns and butter chicken took centre stage, alongside vegetarian pasta options, poke bowls and Buddha bowls. Starters on offer included antipasti for 2. A platter of cured meats, crusty ciabatta, pickles and vegetables in oil, full of flavour, texture and colour, seemed to be a safe choice.

Squid and calamari

In reality, antipasti at Luna’s featured a liberal sprinkling of ‘homemade veggie crisps’ scattered over a few slices of prosciutto, some cherry tomatoes, some cubes of Cheddar cheese and two flaccid fingers of an unidentifiable white cheese.  There were a few thin slices of bread on the side, and two tubs of sauce that seemed unrelated to the flavours on the platter. In mitigation, stuffed green olives in another small tub were delicious.

Ribeye steaks, cooked to medium rare, had an attractive charred appearance, but were said to be lacking in seasoning, which left two of the foodies at our table fuming. Tagliatelle Alfredo was overcooked, and served in a large, claggy mound. Salt and pepper squid served with rice and chips proved to be tough and overcooked – another disappointment. Well-cooked rice and chips didn’t make up for an offering of lacklustre squid.

Disappointed by our underwhelming repast, the foodies decided to give the kitchen another chance, and we ordered dessert. Rich and delightful, the sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce and ice cream saved the day for me. Similarly, we all fought for a taste of the creamy, vibrant and delicious classic NY cheesecake with a berry compote. The pastry chef at Luna’s may have a true passion and love of baking, while the butcher and fish chefs need more time to settle into their new roles.

The Christmas season is almost upon us, so take time from all your other pursuits to book a table at your favourite restaurant, and enjoy the festivities.

A Matter of Taste with Charlotte Malakoff