Well-executed pub food and worldly fine dining at The Bishop’s Mistress.

A SMALL house on Ridgeway North is attracting a lot of attention – not, however, because it’s the home of a clandestine second wife. This small house, situated at 68 Ridgeway North in Highlands, is a newly-launched gastropub, rejoicing in the quirky name of The Bishop’s Mistress.

Built 104 years ago by a Rietfontein farmer as an art studio for his wife, the structure has stood the test of time. Recently renovated, decorated with great good taste and attention to detail, and reincarnated as The Bishop’s Mistress, this small house, led by Chef Dean Jones, looks set to become a favourite destination for Harare’s discerning foodies.

The Bishop’s Mistress exudes warmth and cosiness, and manages to combine a casual vibe with fine dining and sophisticated decor. ‘Food must tell a story’, said Chef Dean, as we chatted recently over a cup of coffee. Artisans were putting up the last few sheets of vintage wall paper in the dining room, completing the traditional style that was part of this chef’s vision for the pub.

A self-confessed perfectionist, Dean’s elegant pub grub tells the story of his journey from the Silwood School of Cookery in a 17th century Cape farm in Rondebosch, Cape Town, to the 5 star Quartier Francais in Franschoek. On, then, to Victoria Falls, to be executive chef for Wild Horizons, before opening the highly successful Dean’s Restaurant at Elephant Walk. New beginnings after the pandemic found Chef Dean on Fothergill Island, training staff and organising special events, before he made his way back to Harare, into the warm embrace of The Bishop’s Mistress.

If you’ve had your fill of mid-day chicken and chips, you’ll be excited about Chef Dean’s British-style pub lunch menu. What’s not to love about a beef Scotch egg salad served with an organic salad dressed with honey balsamic dressing, or a beef and ale pie made from slow-braised shin in a rich ale gravy? I’ve yet to taste the ale-battered hake with peppery pea puree, aka fish and chips with mushy peas, but the thought has my mouth watering.

An invitation to King Charles’s impending coronation on May 6 could still be languishing in the post office, but don’t despair. You can enjoy a plate of Coronation Chicken (roast chicken with a curry mayonnaise), or a Royal Club sandwich, on the day, at The Bishop’s Mistress on Ridgeway North. Coronation chicken, a dish created by writer Constance Spry for the coronation banquet of Queen Elizabeth 11 in 1953, is still a popular choice.

Bookings are hard to come by at The Bishop’s Mistress, but two weeks ago George and I managed to reserve a table for two for a Sunday roast lunch, the most popular meal of the week. An 80s soundtrack of Passenger’s Let Her Go was playing as we were ushered into the crowded pub by personable front of house manager, Di Bentley. Later on the sweet sounds of songstress Nicole Kinnaird could just be heard amid the merrymaking of the diners.

The hero of the three course Sunday lunch was a main course of roast sirloin of beef with roast potatoes, roasted vegetables, Yorkshire puddings and gravy. Overseen by Chef Cleto Mubaiwa, who made a name for himself at On The Greenz at Borrowdale Brooke, and at Honeybear Restaurant, the beef was cooked to a turn, and the gravy delicious. Perfection in plating was ensured by Chef Dean; al dente mange tout peas were layered in a fan shape, alongside a mountain of thinly-sliced roast beef and umami-rich gravy.

Team work is important to Chef Dean, and he has great faith in the talented chefs and cooks working together in his state-of-the-art kitchen. Other considerations include conservation and energy saving, and cookers, sous vides and dehydrators all run off solar energy. Significantly, the tables and chairs at The Bishop’s Mistress have all been made by a carpenter in Msasa, using locally sourced teak and quality materials.

Chef Dean Jones has created a clever mix of of well-executed pub food in the British tradition, with worldly fine dining. So whether you’re in search of bangers and mash, or soy and orange confit duck leg, you’re sure to find it at The Bishop’s Mistress.

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