Staff Writer 
A Matter of Taste with Charlotte Malakoff
THE warm heart of Africa seems to have suffered a total eclipse, as thousands of Nigerians, Ghanaians, Malawians and Zimbabweans, targeted in South Africa by xenophobic anti-migrant activists, have become refugees, fleeing for their lives. While repatriation operations gained momentum at Beit Bridge and Plumtree border posts, South African franchises, reaching saturation point at home, continued to flock seamlessly to Zimbabwe.
Returnees having lost their livelihoods in South Africa face an uncertain future, but the South African fast food and coffee shop franchises opening up in Harare, look set to prosper. This is good news for Zimbabweans with any disposable income. Plump, roasted mbeva (field mice), or grilled ncheni (bream) may continue to remain traditional favourites, but there’s no denying the attraction of ‘luxe’ food chains with their contemporary architecture, diverse international cuisines and lively social atmosphere.
If franchises represent the future of eating out in Harare, the opening last month of Tiger’s Milk Kitchen and Bar on ED Mnangagwa Road, suggests that the future is already here. Since its transformation into a commercial and development corridor, ED Mnangagwa Road has not only become an economic hub; it has also become home to a growing number of trendy restaurants and coffee houses. So it was back to the future, when George and I made our way to Tiger’s Milk recently for a mid-week lunch date.
Well-signposted and easy to access, the spacious parking area was policed by a security guard, keeping a watchful eye on numerous high-end vehicles. A pleasant young person greeted us at the entrance to the restaurant, and led us to a table in the garden, where a large garden umbrella offered shade from the warm winter sunshine. Sitting back on comfortable chairs with arm rests, we looked around at the manicured green lawns and elegant potted palm trees. Beyond lay the bustling thoroughfare of ED Mnangagwa Road, where long distance buses, trucks, combis, and cars hurtled back and forth along the commercial corridor. The sound of traffic was barely audible; instead there was a quiet hum of contented diners, kicking back with a glass of chilled white wine, and establishing ownership of an exciting new venue.
It’s always intriguing, from a sociological point of view, to observe the patrons who eat out, and they vary from restaurant to restaurant. Apart from a table of teenagers, most of the guests at Tiger’s Milk looked like well-heeled Millennials. Although George and I were well above the average age group, we felt comfortable, and found the wait staff pleasant and attentive.
The menu at Tiger’s Milk is vast, with the emphasis on dude food, a trendy celebration of hearty meat dishes, gourmet burgers, deep-fried comfort foods and well-stuffed nachos and tacos.
You could, for instance, start your meal with a Mac ’n Cheese Bacon Bomb, continuing with a Rockstar Burger, made with a ‘beef patty, cheese, crispy bacon and smashed avo’.
If you’re out having lunch with da boys, why not share a Shisha My Bru Platter, featuring grilled peri peri chicken, boerewors, French fries and corn on the cob?
The Wagyu Burger looked less impressive on the plate than its description on the menu. The beef patty was flavourful, but the sauce and chilli jam made the brioche bun soggy quite quickly. The fries were all different sizes; some were crisp, others flaccid and oily. On reflection, there are probably better ways to eat super-marbled, super-expensive wagyu beef than minced up into a burger patty.
A Veggie Taco from the Tex-Mex section arrived minus the key elements of re-fried beans and pulled jackfruit, and by the time a replacement arrived, George had finished eating his burger. The taco was worth waiting for, however, as the combination of char-grilled corn, avo, sour cream, re-fried beans, jackfruit and lettuce was delicious.
The exotic jackfruit, not to be confused with pungent-smelling durian, added an unusual savoury taste to all the other elements.
We shared a large Malva pudding, ‘soaked in a naughty sauce’ and served with custard, vanilla bean ice cream. Despite the cringeworthy description, the Malva pudding was delectable and probably the highlight of the meal.
Bearing in mind that a buzz in the sun can hit harder than dinner time drinks, we gave the Moét et Chandon and Sauvignon Blanc a miss. Had it been my intention to get tipsy while relaxing in agreeable surroundings, the wide selection of sparkling wines, red and white wines, tequila, vodka, gin, rum and whiskeys would have made this effortless. Instead I had spring water, served in a fancy glass, with slices of lemon and ice cubes. George drank his usual Castle lager.
If you like to watch your food being prepared, the Dude Food section inside offers comfortable seating, with a view of the chefs and cooks at work in the kitchen.
A central dining area offers large tables for family groups, and if you’re a party person, or just like to be near the high-quality spirits, book a table near the bar, where Free Beer Tomorrow flashes in red fluorescent lighting.
Bear in mind, should you be disabled or wheelchair bound, the loos are very narrow, and there are no grab handles on the walls.
Overall, one can’t fail to be impressed by the architecture and quality of service at Tiger’s Milk Kitchen and Bar. Any shortcomings in food preparation should soon be ironed out, considering that the opening was only a few short weeks ago.
As South African franchises continue to open up countrywide, they may provide employment for many skilled workers fleeing South Africa and returning to Zimbabwe.
Government Reintegration Initiatives, crucially, are offering business funding access, agricultural support, and a variety of recruitment campaigns for returning citizens. In time to come, our returnees may feel that there’s no place like home.
