Wining in misty mountains

Many will want to visit the “warm heart of Africa” and a trip to Zimbabwe could once again be on many itineraries. A popular destination has always been the Bvumba Mountains in the Eastern Highlands, a short drive from the border city of Mutare. These misty mountains, covered with evergreen forests of moss and ferns, and sunny pastures of proteas and aloes, are home to a host of rare butterflies and special birdlife. Stone age sites, rock art paintings and the possibility of seeing a shy leopard lurking among the lianas or a rare Samango monkey swinging through the treetops, makes this an exciting destination.
A merry group of wassailers, all members of Meikles Grapevine in Harare, recently travelled to the Mountains of the Mist, to sample an extraordinary selection of wines provided by various suppliers and importers, and to experience the renowned hospitality and cuisine of these two inns. Some found room at the Inn on the Vumba, while others climbed higher up the mountain and checked in at the White Horse Inn.
Although Stan “Dionysus” Higgins, convener of the Grapevine, did not make it to the Bvumba, Bunny Landon, second-in-command and much-revered high priestess of wine, initiated us into many delicious wines ranging from Nederburg sparkling wine provided by Big 5 Wines, to Blanc de Noir Rose from Boschendal, supplied by Hotelserve, and Croft’s Tawny Port, supplied by Mark Oxley of Latilla Wines.
Wine tasting commenced in earnest on the evening of our arrival, when Gordon Addams, one of Zimbabwe’s best known hoteliers, welcomed us to an “Out of Africa” dinner at Inn on the Vumba. Zebra print cloths covered long tables and red rose and green aloe floral arrangements glowed in the candlelight. Silver flatware gleamed and the levels in spotless glassware rose and fell as skilled waiters poured out Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Shiraz, each wine paired with a different course.
Lake fish and Banana Cocktail was followed by a velvety butternut soup, subtly enhanced with blue cheese. Chicken curry with cashew nuts, served on a bed of rice, was rich and aromatic, summoning up visions of grand meals served in the time of the Raj, or at time-honoured institutions such as Mombasa Club.
A cooling dessert of mango mousse was followed by a mouth-watering selection of Camembert, Brie, Cheddar and blue cheeses from the CheeseMan, who has become a household name in Zimbabwe. Rosie Mitchell, on behalf of the CheeseMan, entertained us with a short film describing the origins of cheese, followed by a rendition of The Lonely Goatherd, sung by her windup fluffy toy goat.
Later that evening, George and I drove slowly through swirling mist, to White Horse Inn, where we spent a comfortable night in Garden Suite number one. I always look forward to meals cooked by Executive Chef Tobiasi, and was up bright and early next morning for a perfectly cooked cheese omelette, crispy streaky bacon and tasty boerewors. Fresh white toast with butter, homemade Seville orange marmalade and Bvumba coffee made breakfast a memorable meal. David Graham, owner of the White Horse Inn, has always loved good food. After joining the Railway Hotels group in Britain as a young trainee, he worked as a commis cook and waiter, graduating to senior positions at Gleneagles Hotel in Scotland and the Royal Station Hotel in York. While visiting Rhodesia on holiday in 1972, he accepted a job as assistant manager at Umtali’s Cecil Hotel. When independence came to Zimbabwe in 1980, David Graham left Troutbeck Inn, Nyanga, where he had been general manager, and moved to the White Horse Inn, accompanied by Chef Tobiasi. This highly experienced duo, both accomplished in the French style of cookery, has together established a reputation for good food in the Bvumba Mountains.  Dinner on Saturday evening at the White Horse Inn was presented in the theme of Iberian Nights, to complement Latilla Wines’ selection of Port wines, Amontillado sherry and delicious Vinho Verde. The versatile cooks turned their hands to caldo verde (green soup), fish a la Portugais, and pot roast beef in wine. Piece de resistance was undoubtedly crème caramel, Portugal’s favourite dessert. Velvet textured individual custards, topped with a swirl of whipped cream, swam in a caramel sauce. As we sipped brandy balloons of Macieira liqueur brandy, the soulful songs of Fado singer Amalia Rodrigues rose and fell on the evening air.
Next morning, after a breakfast of Buck’s Fizz and another superb omelette cooked by Tobiasi, it was time to return to Harare. Fine dining and the tasting of wine are enjoyed everywhere in the world, but the Grapevine’s recent festival in the Bvumba Mountains must be as good as it gets, ever.

l Inn on the Vumba,Tel: 263 020 60722,Cell: 011 215 127
White Horse Inn, Tel: 263 020 60325.
Email: whitehorseinn@bsatt.com   Comments to: cmalakoff@gmail.com