Great oxtail dishes at Adrienne’s

Zimbos, it must be said, have always had a taste for oxtail, shin, tripe and zondos, while kitchen goddesses to the north tended, in the past, to offer their guests fancy dishes such as risotto with porcini mushrooms and twice-baked goats cheese soufflés.
But the tide is changing. In Britain, sales of oxtail have risen by sixty per cent, and at St John Restaurant in London, Fergus Henderson, whose signature dishes include Crispy Pigs Tails and Braised Oxtail Ravioli, was recently awarded his first Michelin star.
Older readers and Baby Boomers may remember the ubiquitous tins of bully beef that made their way to the lunch table with boring regularity in years gone by.
Oxtail and brisket, featuring in wartime rations, fell out of favour for many years, until foodies on both sides of the Atlantic recently brought them back into fashion.
Encouraging this trend, Fergus Henderson’s best selling cookery book The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, offers many recipes for hitherto unpopular offal, such as pig’s trotter stuffed with potato, pea and pig’s ear soup and oxtail soup.
Good news travels fast, and lovers of ‘slow convenience’ food will know that Thursday is oxtail day at Adrienne’s in Belgravia.
Costing US$12, the oxtail is served with a choice of sadza or baked potato, and comes with a complimentary glass of delicious Robertson’s Shiraz, from the renowned Western Cape winery.
George requested sadza with his oxtail, which was appropriately accompanied by a serving of rape. My oxtail, steaming hot, rich in flavour and falling off the bone, was served with a large, mellow baked potato and a helping of steamed carrot, zucchini and broccoli.
As every amateur cook knows, there are as many ways to cook an oxtail, as there are to skin a cat. But there are no short cuts, and to achieve the delicious result that has customers returning week after week, a process of slow cooking must be followed.
Today’s chefs who describe oxtail as ‘slow convenience’ food have discovered that other useful kitchen tasks can be performed, while the oxtail simmers slowly and gently on the stove or in the oven.
Guests to Adrienne’s who require a simple, energising meal, can order bream fillet and salad for as little as US$5.
A very attractive three-course package, priced at US$10, has recently been introduced.
Last Thursday the three course set menu offered cream of tomato soup, followed by beef kebab, with ice cream for dessert. Had I not been intent on having oxtail, I would have tried the set menu, which seems to offer excellent value.
A combination of the friendly welcome from owner Nick Mandeya, courteous and efficient waiter service, and well-priced, tasty meals, makes Adrienne’s a popular destination.

Adrienne’s Restaurant
Shop 2 Fairways Bldg
Sam Nujoma Street
Belgravia
Harare
Tel: 335602
– Send your comments to: cmalakoff@gmail.com