Not all rosy at Sam Levy’s Café Med

Charlotte Malakoff
If Sam Levy’s plan to open a cinema in Borrowdale Village had gone according to plan, the numerous restaurants and tearooms in this busy location would have had reason to remain open in the evenings. As things stand, when dusk falls and the gates are locked and barred, Sam Levy’s Village resembles a ghost town.

The Borrowdale Road, particularly in the evenings, is always frantic, with commuter ‘buses, trucks and land cruisers making their way to Hatcliffe, Domboshava and to Borrowdale Brook.
But in spite of the volume of traffic, anyone wanting an evening meal in the Village is limited to three establishments on the perimeter of the Borrowdale shops, and a fast food chain on the Pomona side.
One in this trio is Café Med, which before its current transformation, existed as a quite genteel teashop, known as the Tea Cosy.
Tables and chairs were set up on a grassy patch in the shade of gum trees and a large black kettle hung decoratively from an overhead branch.
Re-invented some years ago as an edgy, rough at the edges restaurant, Café Med is currently offering a US$10 meal consisting of a starter and a main course.
Intending to discover what was what and who was who at Café Med, George and I set off towards Borrowdale one dark evening last week.
The fast food centre, however, was ablaze with lights, and a lofty tree near TM car park, decked with Christmas lights, helped us locate the turnoff to the restaurant.
All was dark in the parking area beneath the gum trees, but three security guards dressed in green Day-Glo jackets, reassuringly popped up out of nowhere and greeted us.
The main dining area at Café Med is a long, rectangular space with a brick floor, and resembles an enclosed driveway.
The interior is gloomy, but a helpful waiter brought me a candle to assist in reading the menu.
George chose a starter of ribs and French fries, and I asked for spicy chicken livers. George found the ribs tasty and enjoyed the crisp, well-cooked fries.
The chicken livers were served in a rather fruity sauce, with two slices of delicious, freshly baked flat bread. My first taste of chicken liver was OK, but at the second mouthful a gritty crunch told me that the livers had not been rinsed or washed before cooking. I hazarded a third mouthful, but on tasting grit again, abandoned the dish.
The Tilapia fried in batter that I chose for my main course was well cooked and tasty, and George enjoyed his medium rare beef fillet with mushroom sauce.
But both of us were dismayed by the floppy, under-cooked and oily French fries on our plates. If the disappointing chicken livers and the oily French fries had not destroyed my appetite, I might have ordered a Pavlova or chocolate pudding for dessert.
But as things were, the most sensible option was to go home, make a cup of instant, and munch a homemade Christmas mince pie while watching Master chef on TV.
Building operations are underway in Sam Levy’s Village, and while no mention has been made of a cinema, a new night club and various upmarket developments will no doubt encourage more restaurateurs to stay open in the evenings.
Café Med
Sam Levy’s Village
Borrowdale
Tel 883357
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