The Pointe for home cooked dishes

Zim fare, even when described in different establishments as “fusion”, “Thai” or “Szechuan”, usually tastes as you would expect it to, and requires neither a chemical analysis nor a forensic audit to determine its origin.
But should being awarded a Michelin star suddenly becomes as important to local chefs as the acquiring of the IS0 9001 certification is for many local companies, there would be a flurry of cooks taking working holidays in the most famous gastronomic centres of Europe.
Sadza chefs would return from a spell at the Savoy Hotel, proficient in serving grilled polenta with a sophisticated version of beef stew garnished with seafood tortellini and a puree of seven different types of chilli peppers. Mealie-meal porridge might be transformed into a version of the infamous snail porridge created by chef Heston Blumenthal at the Fat Duck in Bray, said to be the second best restaurant in Europe. Tsunga and wild mushrooms could be simmered in butter and provide a filling for an African roulade or a quiche Zimbabwe.
For the time being, however, most local cooks seem content with serving food in a recognisable form. The more artistic and creative the cook, the more attractive the presentation of the meal, but the patron is never in doubt as to what exactly he is eating.
At The Pointe, a homely restaurant sandwiched between Baines and Josiah Chinamano Avenues, a wide variety of traditional and Portuguese dishes are served every day of the week. Specialities include oxtail, Kariba bream, bacalhau (salt cod) and Mozambique style grilled chicken. On Sundays, the dish of the day is roast sucking pig.
One particular advantage of visiting the Pointe on a Sunday is that lunch is served from 12.30, and continues throughout the afternoon. So if you were carousing until the early hours of Sunday morning, and have a late start to the day, you can be assured of being served a delicious Sunday lunch even if you arrive at teatime.
George and I arrived last Sunday at The Pointe, just before two. The gracious maitre d’hotel, sartorial in grey slacks and matching waistcoat, greeted us like old friends, although we had not visited for over a year. We sat in the sunny front room, with an unimpeded view of the TV, which was tuned in to a replay of the football match showing Manchester City’s defeat of Chelsea. I have never seen the point of watching TV while eating a meal, but will concede that fixing your attention on the screen while eating lunch might seem appropriate if a) You were dining in a restaurant alone, or b) You fell out with your companion at the start of the meal and conversation became impossible. In the event of either of these situations occurring, The Pointe also provides up to date newspapers for clients to peruse.
George and I shared a sliced chourico (spicy pork sausage), served with fresh white French bread and butter, as a starter. Grilled calamari, US$9, was George’s choice. Served with French fries it looked perfectly delicious, and George had licked the platter clean before I was able to ask for a taste.
My Mozambique style grilled chicken and French fries, US$8, were served sizzling on a cast iron platter, on top of a heavy wooden tray. The fries were superb, and the chicken full of flavour, even if slightly over-salted for my taste.
The dessert menu included apple crumble and caramel custard, but we decided to share a slice of coconut and vanilla cake (US$3) with a cup of instant coffee each (US$1). The cake was served in a dramatic way, with a large spoon of fresh cream, but it was neither coconut nor vanilla. Covered and filled with a thick pink butter icing, one mouthful went a very long way.
As we finished our meal, a plate of luscious grilled prawns on a bed of rice, and a plate of toothsome roast pork and crispy roast potatoes were served to some latecomers at a table behind us. I doubt I would have batted an eyelid if the waiter had been carrying a saucer of carrot foam and a bowl of snail porridge. But I resolved then and there to return to the Pointe before long, for some more home cooking.
The Pointe Restaurant
3rd Street
Between Baines and Josiah Chinamano Avenues
Tel.: 2931603
– cmalakoff@gmail.com