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It’s cool eating out at China Garden

It being so difficult to make a quick yen at home, it is hardly surprising that Chinese nationals continue to venture to foreign shores, in particular to the warm heart of Africa.
Last year food shortages, power cuts and lack of water in Zimbabwe, may have prompted some recent arrivals to seek out greener pastures in Mozambique, or back home in Beijing. But these excursions were short-lived, and one can conclude from the proliferation of Chinese restaurants in Harare, that the numbers of immigrants to Zimbabwe are growing.
For many years, the Bamboo Inn, situated in what was formerly called Manica Road, was everyone’s favourite destination for spring rolls, chicken wings and chop suey. Since its closure some years ago, busy Chinese restaurants have sprung up all over the suburbs and within the densely populated CBD.
Zimbos of all shapes and sizes love Chinese food although not all of them have mastered the style of eating with chopsticks.
Close to the suburb of Milton Park is Rowland Square, once a residential area and home to middle-income teachers and civil servants. Several historic old houses are now occupied by commercial enterprises, inclu-ding the popular China Garden Restaurant, which is owned and managed by the statuesque Mrs Wu.
Having acquired China Garden from Mr Lee and Mr Yang, who ventured into the tissue paper business in Maputo, Mrs Wu has proved herself in a few short years to be a capable businesswoman. 
It was a year since George and I had last visited China Garden, and last Friday at lunchtime, we sat in the recently completed gazebo, now fully equipped, and crowded with a multi-ethnic mix of patrons.
What our waitress lacked in finesse she made up for with a pleasant smile. The menu displayed a gallery of many brightly colo-ured Chinese dishes. ‘Yes’, the waitress affirmed, ‘we took the pictures ourselves, and that is what the food looks like.’ The reality, however, was quite different.
Grilled fish, illustrated with chiffonades of red and green peppers, was served with a minimalist garnish of subdued looking chop-ped peppers.
Although shy and reserved in appearance, the grilled fish was tasty. The vegetable platter of cucumber, daikon (Chinese radish) and nameless specialities, failed to fulfil its promise, as the specialities were replaced with half a sliced onion and a cohort of regimented spring onions. The hoisin (or was it black bean and soy?) dip, however, was delicious, and perfect with the daikon and cucumber.
I do not know why I persist in ordering fried rice when I eat out, as it always has an air of decrepitude and never fails to disappoint. But the chicken pieces (kung pao) fried with red chilli peppers and aromatic Sichuan pepper (prickly ash) was so tasty, that it made up for any shortcomings in other dishes.
The atmosphere at China Garden is casual and laid back. Clients take calls on their cell phones and converse loudly, some finalising business deals, others planning assignations, appointments and trysts.
Even waiters receive calls on their mobiles, keeping in touch with family and friends who await them after hours, beyond the confines of Rowland Square.
Families with babies in high chairs, groups of friends, business associates and couples, were all in relaxed mode last Friday, and appeared to be enjoying their meals.
Mrs Wu and other restaurateurs understand that everyone enjoys going out to eat, and that providing tasty, well-priced meals will keep their businesses afloat and outside the jaws of the recession.
China Garden
17 Rowland Square
Milton Park
– Comments to cmalakoff@gmail.com