Manipulating chopsticks at Dong Fang Restaurant

Growing up in a former British colony has made most Zimbos conservative in food preferences, style of dress and general demeanour.
A well-cut suit and tie is the preferred attire for many city workers — animal print shirts and flip-flops are reserved for weekends. When it comes to eating out, we like to know what we are eating: anything chopped small or shredded is suspect. While all of us have fond memories of home cooking “like Mother used to make it”, there is evidence, however, that Zimbos are becoming increasingly adventurous when eating out and exploring different cuisines.
A prominent politician recently commented that globalisation is a “fact, not an option”, which might account for the proliferation and popularity of Chinese restaurants in Harare.
Every second person I speak to has either just returned from a shopping trip to Guangzhou, or is planning to take the family on holiday to Beijing.
An acquaintance recently spent three months in a budget “Huton” hotel, assisting in the kitchen while trying to learn some of the complexities of Chinese cuisine.
For cultural reasons, few Zimbos will tipple on snake wine, or request vermicelli with horsemeat, speciality of southeast China. But a host of delicious Chinese dishes, beautiful to behold and tantalising to the palate, is available to the discerning diner at several of the authentic Chinese restaurants to be found in Harare.
Comparing prices has become a national pastime, and diners will inevitably choose a restaurant they know to be good, to give value for money and which provides the kind of welcome generally reserved for a returning prodigal son.
Just such a destination is Dong Fang Chinese restaurant in Chisipite.
In recent weeks, when local restaurateurs were charging prices well in excess of those in upmarket Manhattan or Sandton, a delicious meal for three could be had at Dong Fang for US$10. Prices have in general come down, but Dong Fang still provides comparatively excellent value for money.
Last Saturday evening, George and I planned a visit to Dong Fang.
We decided to vary our usual order of country style tofu, pork with black beans and chilli, and Chinese cabbage with mushrooms, and to try out a dish requiring six hours to prepare, referred to collectively as “Pancakes”.
I placed the order at lunchtime, and booked a table for 7.30 pm.
Setting out in good time we encountered a sudden tropical storm, which turned the upper reaches of Enterprise Road into a swirling torrent, and brought traffic to a virtual standstill.
Ploughing through water axle-deep, we steered a course for the Chisi shops and eventually arrived at Dong Fang.
Drying off in the cosy interior, we sipped Stoney Ginger Beer (US$2.00) and mineral water (US$1.50).
Before long, a stack of ten perfectly made pancakes arrived, with side dishes of spicy pork fillet and black beans, pickled vegetables with glass noodles and stir-fried potatoes Julienne.
Proprietor Michael demonstrated with deft movements of the chopsticks, how to flip a pancake onto a serving plate, to line up small helpings of delicious fillings, and to fold it over into a parcel.
This creation is then eaten hamburger style. Between us we managed to consume ten sumptuous pancakes, and took home what was left of the fillings, to snack on the next day.
When contemplating a Chinese meal, never confine yourself to prawn crackers, spring rolls and spicy chicken wings. Let Dong Fang’s chef, a native of Shenyang, show you what he’s got, and experience a tasting adventure without even setting foot in the Forbidden City.
As manipulating chopsticks becomes second nature, order a Hot Pot, and cook your own noodles, vegetables and paper-thin slices of lamb in a simmering fondue dish. Chances are you’ll become a Dong Fang regular.
Our pancake adventure, fillings and drinks included, cost US$21.50.