Sandawana: Memorable, worthwhile

Poetry, theatre, song, dance and visual arts are all there for the asking, whether on the green sward in front of the main stage, at the recital room within the nearby Dutch Reformed Church, at Reps Theatre in Second Street Extension, or at numerous other convenient locations.
There is always a variety of snacks and meals available at HIFA, but for anyone attending a recital at the Dutch Reformed Church, or indeed any other performance, lunch or dinner at Sandawana Restaurant at the nearby Cresta Jameson Hotel, would provide the cherry on top of a memorable day.
It must be at least 10 years since I last set foot in the Jameson, but on a whim last Friday, I invited George to accompany me to lunch at The Sandawana. We pulled up at the hotel entrance, and a smartly dressed and smiling doorman, stepping forward to open the car door, created an immediate favourable impression. While George dropped off the car in a secure parking area around the corner, I took stock of the hotel lobby.
Early winter sunshine streamed into the north facing hotel entrance and beautifully sculpted golden floral light fittings shone down from the ceiling. A large and multi-coloured arrangement of fresh chrysanthemums on a central table created a sense of well-being, which increased as the afternoon progressed.
Solicitous staff, immaculately turned out, directed us to the non-smoking area, where our table for two looked out through tinted glass onto busy Samora Machel Avenue.
Never one to order impulsively, I find I need to visualise each dish on the menu, and to imagine how it might taste. On this occasion, as it was George’s mission to eat a meal costing no more than US$10, we both had to study the menu with care.
Our solicitous waiter allowed us ample time to deliberate. Finally George asked for two starters, chicken livers, and Pancake Jameson, both priced at $3. A slice of coconut cake for pudding was also $3.
Not only was George’s meal within his self-imposed budget, but each course was beautifully presented and quite delicious. The chicken livers were wrapped in bacon, secured by a toothpick, served on top of a tasty sauce, and garnished with a slice of fresh red tomato and artistically woven ribbons of cucumber. If it hadn’t tasted so good, it might have passed as an art installation.
The Pancake Jameson, with its unusual filling of tomato, cheese, ham and garlic, was smooth and delicate, and alluringly presented with a similar garnish. I have, in other restaurants, been served unspeakably unattractive pancakes, bursting at the seams and piled onto a plate with no thought of appearance or visual appeal.
Without giving economic considerations a second thought, I ordered soup of the day ($3) and grilled tilapia ($10).
Friday’s soup was steaming hot chicken soup, richly flavoured and made without the tasteless floury thickening encountered so often in local restaurants. The grilled tilapia, served with French fries, crisp broccoli and carrot sticks, was almost close to perfect. I declined the offer of lemon and butter or tartare sauces, and enjoyed the pure taste of fresh lake fish, skilfully cooked and served on a warmed but spotless white platter.
Thinking back on our meal at the Sandawana, I remembered crisp white linen table napkins, fresh flowers on the table and polite service.
As we walked out of the Jameson Hotel, I noticed the green bank of thriving pot plants and ornamental trees, ranged along the exterior walls. It is attention to detail of this kind that lifts an establishment out of the run-of-the-mill and into something memorable and worthwhile.
So, whether I am watching Kweseka Makishi performing their celebrated masked dance at HIFA, or thrilling to the sounds of Schumann’s Piano Quartet performed by Broz Quartet, I’ll be planning my next visit to the Sandawana.

Sandawana Restaurant
Cresta Jameson Hotel
Samora Machel Avenue/ Park Street
Harare

Tel.: 774106/12
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