Theo’s brings country glamour to the city

While purists might insist that no Sunday is complete without a chunk of roast baron of beef, Yorkshire pudding and gravy, Theo’s pork chop did provide a most acceptable alternative. Advised by a fellow foodie that Theo’s House of Coffees, just off the Enterprise Road, was open on Sundays for breakfast, lunch and high tea, I put the packet of boerewors back in the freezer and hung up my apron, while George booked a table for lunch at 1 o’clock sharp. We invited Norma, a most discerning member of the Wine and Food Society, to join us. Theo’s House of Coffees is a welcoming restaurant set within a peaceful haven of smooth green lawns and exotic plants. In summer, seating is on the veranda, on rustic wooden chairs; tables are covered with crisp, clean tablecloths. The veranda overhang is supported by petrified tree trunks, adding to the countrified atmosphere of a venue surprisingly close to the bustling Enterprise Road. Management and staff were drawing breath after a busy morning serving full English breakfasts to a hungry populace, but our waiter was friendly and efficient and directed us to a table with an uninterrupted view of the garden. While we studied the menu, he opened a bottle of Normandy Cabernet Sauvignon brought by Norma from her personal wine cellar. Both Norma and George ordered seafood. Norma was delighted with her choice of crepes, generously stuffed with a creamy prawn filling. George was moderately impressed with his plate of grilled queen-sized prawns and chips; he would have liked a garlic and butter sauce on the side, rather than the proffered tomato ketchup. My pork chop was a great success, although I regretted the non-arrival of the advertised mustard sauce. Pondering what this might have tasted like, I looked up a recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking for a delectable mustard sauce. Cream, dry English mustard and tomato paste are mixed in the pan with the meat juices of the pork chop, and simmered together for three minutes. Freshly chopped basil or parsley is then stirred into the sauce. Talk about gilding the lily! Our main courses were all priced at $10 each, which included a side salad of crisp lettuce, cucumber, tomato and onion rings. A well-flavoured creamy salad dressing was served separately, ensuring the salad was not soggy when it arrived. Ice cream and chocolate sauce, George’s all-time favourite, cost $2.00, while my superb (if small) slice of carrot cake was $3.00. Although my filter coffee was hot and aromatic, it was served in a latte glass, where it cooled rapidly and underwent a subtle change in flavour. Next time you’re queuing for fuel at the busy service station in Enterprise Road, stop off at number 167, and enjoy a tasty meal in pleasant surroundings. Theo’s House of Coffees 167 Enterprise Road Highlands Comments to cmalakoff@gmail.com