Hang out in style

(OUT & ABOUT)

Some restaurants are fast and practical where you expect to be in and out within an hour.   Others are made for lingering and Antique Rose is one that encourages hanging out for a leisurely afternoon. Elegant retro young owner, Karen Attwell, has certainly stamped it with her very personalised identity. A couple of old paintings of overblown roses in antique frames anchor the décor theme while fresh roses in vases and rose patterned china give it an old fashioned chintzy tea room quality.

Set in the grounds of Golden Stairs Nursery, it is very pretty, overlooking a lush garden. Laid out on a weathered wooden deck under canvas, carpets under the tables give a cosy feel and the place is crowded with pretty whimsical furniture and accessories — a mixture of birdcages (many with singing birds in them) curlicued white-painted wrought iron chairs, lace tablecloths over warm brown underlays, glass bell jars, chandeliers, sparkly lights, shining wood, chintzy china, silver, pewter and crystal.

Menu is chalked up on the blackboard and is extensive and interesting. Breakfast is not cheap, starting off at US$6 for a plain croissant but all food is fresh and good. Kippers with poached egg,  the ‘garden’ breakfast and the bacon and scrambled egg croissant are US$10, and a smoked salmon croissant or a mushroom and goats cheese omelette will set you back US$12.

Mains include substantial meat dishes like beef mushroom fillet, oxtail couscous and rabbit stew — all at US$15. Eggplant parmigiana, anchovy tomato pasta and salmon ricotta quiche are also US$15 and chicken pot pie US$12. Dishes are nicely put together and well flavoured but this time I found the stuffed mushrooms (US$12) wanting in presentation. Maybe I’ve been watching too much masterchef — but I think Greg and John would have labeled it a messy plate of food. I liked the mushrooms themselves — the button variety, stuffed with a piquant mixture of bacon, cheese and herbs. But they plate were served on rocket leaves (undressed) — what looked like a dollop of the haloumi, fig salad (on the board at US$15), a couple of radishes (unsliced), a vinegary gherkin (also unsliced) — all topped with a mound of grated cheese and ricotta as well as a garnish of  lemon and tomato wedges and sundried tomato. Far too much going on.

Last time I ate the spinach and tuna roulade, which I found really delicious and although served on a similar salad base it was much less fussy. A dollop of pesto on one piece of cheese was a lovely accompaniment. Cherry tomatoes instead of under-ripe wedges made all the difference and in that case the roulade benefitted from a side squeeze of lemon.

Charming and friendly waiter — Livingstone Zigozho — a finalist in the Zimbabwe on a Plate awards for service personality of the year recommended the herbed sole fillet (US$20) but as my friend was celebrating a birthday she went for the prawn curry — simple and very good in a lovely spicy sauce with delicate prawns, garnished with green chillie and coriander. No white wine surprisingly but Nederburg rose (US$4) was a nice accompaniment.

Desserts (all US$6) all look lovely. Choices are choco mousse rum cake, chocolate and coffee brownies, lemon almond cake, apple strudel, pecan pie and raspberry frangipane tart. Although all presented as gluten free this is more than made up for by the sugar content and I found the pecan pie teeth-shrinkingly sweet. Choco mousse rum cake looked gorgeous decorated with dark cherries, bright strawberries and cocoa powder but was also overpoweringly sweet.

All in all though it’s a special eating experience — with good fresh food, charming décor and a relaxing ambience.
– g.jeke@yahoo.com